Ringneck Snake caresheet
Pics by(In order from top to bottom)
Regal Ringneck Snake baby attacking Green Snake
San Bernardino Ringneck Snake eating pinky, by me
Albino Northern Ringneck Snake eating guppy, by Will Still
San Bernardino Ringneck Snake eating salamander, by me
Northern Ringneck Snake eating Salamander, by me
Housing
Ringneck Snakes are fairly small snakes, some sub-species grow to be a little over 2 feet and some grow to nearly 3 but most stay relatively small. Most adults average 15 to 20 inches in length, Regal's average 20 to 30(record is 38). You can keep them in something really small but it is better to have them in an area that they can move around in. A 10 Gallon aquarium is good for 2 or 3 adults not including Regals, 1 Regal a 10 Gallon and so on. I think it is suitable for up to 3 babies in one tank.
The tank needs to have alot of hiding spots, Ringneck Snakes are very shy and nervous creatures in captivity and they need their space. I recommend for one side of the tank to have a nice pile of flat rocks(which all of the snakes can fit under at the same time)and some pieces of wood/bark. On another side you can put a waterbowl, some branches, maybe a nice big flat rock or a little rock cave to hide in. Ringnecks are a burrowing snake, they like to go underground in hot weather so for a substrate you should use soil/dirt or moss. It's a good idea to mist the tank and even the snake to keep it humid.
Ringneck Snakes are active night and day but mostly night, it is all about how hot it is. Ringnecks aren't exactly basking snakes but they have been known to hide under rocks which get warmth from the sun. It is up to you if you want a light over the tank, snakes can see just fine in the dark.
You need a nice good lid so there are no escapees. Ringnecks are masters of escape. Make sure you have a lid that fits tightly and there are no openings other than the air holes. You don't even need to use a lid with air holes, just make sure that if it doesn't have air holes for ventilation, lift it up and air out the tank once a day.
Ringneck Snakes need a temperature in their tank of about 75 to 85 degrees.
Eating
All animals need food, so do Ringneck Snakes, they eat a nice variety of animals including worms, salamanders, snakes, lizards/skinks, ants/ant eggs, small fish, small frogs and even newborn mice. It is best to feed them every 2 or 3 days for babies and every 4 days to a week for adults. It may work better to feed the snakes in a different much smaller tank, some prey items will burrow down in the substrate and stay hidden.
Ringneck Snakes are constrictors but technically they don't constrict prey to kill it. Bigger ones will swing a loop around the prey to hold it down and chew on it till it dies and then proceed it swallow it. Ringnecks have venomous properties in their saliva which helps to kill prey faster, it has no effect what-so-ever on humans. And even if it did, they usually don't bite.
Ringneck Snakes don't just eat, they do get eaten. Birds, cats, dogs, frogs, small mammals and other snakes will take Ringnecks as food. Babies are even eaten by spiders and scorpions. 
Feeding Ringneck Snakes may defintitely be a problem, some specimens will refuse food for a long period of time, depending on the sub-species in question, there are all foods that are relished by each. Northern ringneck snakes(D.p.edwardsii) in my experience will not refuse a slimy or red backed salamander, Southern ringneck snakes(D.p.punctatus) aim more towards small lizards and skinks, as do Mississippi ringnecks(D.p.stictogenys) and Key ringnecks(D.p.acricus). The western sub-species like Regal ringnecks(D.p.regalis), NorthWestern(D.p.occidentalis), San Bernardino(D.p.modestus), Coral-Bellied(D.p.pulchellus), San Diego(D.p.simlis), Monterey(D.p.vandenburgii) and Pacific(D.p.amabilis) usually aim their prey preference more towards other snakes. But, I have also found that if that snake is found near a moist environment, there is a greater chance it will eat salamanders if they are around. If you have a ringneck snake and you cannot get it to eat, contact me and I'll try and help you out.
When you first get the snake, it is important to leave it alone for atleast 1 week, leave it in it's tank, covered by a dark piece of clothing so the snake is in complete darkness. This will encourage the snake to come out and investigate it's new surroundings. After a week passes, put a F/T prey item in with the snake, leave it in with the snake overnight and until afternoon the next day. Leave the tank covered up at this time as well. If that did not work, place a live prey item in the snake's tank(I don't suggest this if the prey can bury away). If that doesn't work, leave the snake alone again in the dark for another week, and proceed with trying to give it food again. If that doesn't work, you should just get rid of the snake and get another, research the snake in depth, or contact me.
Hibernation
Ringneck Snakes hibernate around the end of November. They will not bury in the ground, they will go in deep crevices or tunnels and stay there until it warms up. The best way to hibernate(brumate)your snake is to stop feeding it for 2 weeks, give it a nice little bath in warm water and then put it back in the tank. Give the snakes alot of hiding spaces and a waterbowl for drinking and set the tank in a nice cool place. Ideal temperatures are 50 to 60 degrees. This is not exactly hibernation, it is more of a resting time for them. It gives them a time to not eat, shed, slow down and rest. Even after you set them to "hibernation" they will still move around just very slowly.
Southern Ringneck Snakes most likely won't hibernate. Alot of areas in which they are found don't get cold so they don't need to go through hibernation. Some Ringnecks will stop eating around winter because they know it's time to hibernate, that could be a frustrating thing.
Reproduction
Ringnecks emerge from their resting period in late March or Early April. Soon after emerging they mate. Eggs are laid through May, June and July under rocks, in logs, mainly under objects that are nice and humid and collect good heat. Ringnecks lay from 2 to 10 eggs with the normal being 4 or 5. There are some places where Ringnecks communal nest, meaning females lay their eggs in the same area year after year with other females. Ringnecks are sexually mature at an age of 3 years at which they are about 10 inches in length. Babies hatch 50 to 80 days later at a length of about 3 to 8 inches.
Albinos?
An albino ringneck snake? Yes they do exist, there have been many documented items for albino ringneck snakes, the color of an amelanistic(albino) ringneck snake varies between the sub
-species, some of them, like the southern ringneck snake has a red belly with pink spots, and some of them like the northern ringneck snakes, have pink or yellow bellies. The eyes are a pink color instead of red. A few biologists documented albinos of this species in New Jersey, West Virginia, Kansas, California, Florida and most recently a specimen was found in New York.
If you have or know where I can obtain an albino ringneck snake, leucistic ringneck snake, melanistic ringneck snake, or erythristic ringneck snake please contact me at Helmz777@aol.com I will need a picture of the snake in question if a deal is to be made.
Last Thoughts
Ringneck Snakes make good pets if you know how to take care of them. Although shy and nervous, they are extremely beautiful and personable pets. Not many people take the time to care for it.
Mike Fedzen
Pine Woods Snake caresheet
Pics by(In order from top to bottom)
Pine Woods Snake, by Mark Kenderdine "Crimsonking"
Pine Woods Snake eating Anole, by Dan Scolaro
Pine Woods Snake eating Anole, by me
Housing
Pine woods snakes are small, usually about 9 to 14 inches in length, the record is 16.5 inches. It is better to give the snake a smaller enclosure, than a bigger one, as the snakes are shy and are scared to venture far from a hiding spot in the enclosure. I have found no problems in keeping them in half-gallon plastic aquariums, even though they are adult size. Sand, soil, bark, or moss can be used as the substrate, newspaper or paper towels is not reccommended, as the snakes would rather be in a moist environment. The snakes need something to hide under, or in, flat rocks, pieces of wood and moss can be used. I give mine hideboxes, as they prefer to hide in a little container filled with moss, than hide under a rock, they will also often bury underground and stay under there for days.
A temperature of 75 to 83 degrees in the enclosure is reccommended, any higher and the snake will get very stressed, and any lower and the snake will be unable to digest food. I spray the enclosure once a week, and spray the moss inside the enclosure as well, this is the snake's warning that food is about to arrive.
Eating
Pine Woods Snakes have a very limited diet. In the wild, their main prey are lizards. Small skinks, geckos, anoles or a fence lizard will most likely be taken quickly from you by a Pine Woods Snake. They will also eat salamanders, frogs and snakes. Pine Woods Snakes inject a mild venom to subdue their prey, it doesn't work on humans(they rarely bite) and it also doesn't work on Scarlet Kingsnakes.
The venom works as a neurotoxin and shuts down the prey's bodily functions. How fast the venom works is dependent upon prey species, prey size and where the venom was injected. As early as 2 minutes after the bite, the prey could be unable to move it's legs and arms, making escape impossible.
Once a week, or once every week and a half, the enclosure and the hide box is sprayed with warm water, and a f/t anole is left in over night. Pine woods snakes have great senses of smell and can smell an anole as soon as it is placed in the enclosure. They will take tree frogs, salamanders or lizards/skinks often with no problems, and I have yet to hear of a snake switching onto mice. Some pine woods snakes will take worms.
Reproduction
Little to nothing is known about this snake's reproductive cycle. From it's small size I assume they only lay from 2 to 7 eggs. The young are 5 to 6 inches long at hatching.
Albinos?
Yes atleast one albino Pine Woods Snake exists.
Last Thoughts
Pine Woods Snakes may very well be a challenging snake. Few have lived over 3 years in captivity. Alot of people wouldn't consider keeping it because of it's diet and it's secretive nature. Therefore not many people know about it's lifestyle. 
Mike Fedzen
Glossy Snakes
I have not maintained a large number of glossy snakes. But I will share the info I have gathered in keeping the limited number of specimens I had.
Housing
I kept mine in 20 quart rubbermaid containers (approximately the size of a 5 gallon aquarium). With newspaper as the substrate, or aspen bedding as the substrate. If I used aspen, I would put a small piece of newspaper 5" X 5" in there for the snake to hide under. As well as a water bowl. Temperatures inbetween 75 degrees F and 84 degrees F are best.
Feeding
Most glossy snakes will take lizards and mice. To convert a glossy from a lizard diet over to mice, simply rub a lizard onto a pinky, and offer it to the snake. Most of the time they will take it. Several feedings like this and the snake will take to unscented mice. From there they usually stay on mice, if not, just scent another mouse with a lizard and do it over again.
Albinos?
Yes, currently Don Shores is working with a line of Albino Texas Glossy Snakes.
Glossy snakes stay small, and usually do not bite. They are interesting snakes to keep and are very docile as well. Easy beginner snakes if you are interested in "small snakes".
