Pueblan Milk Snake Caresheet
Housing
Pueblan milks are a small species of milk snakes. Adult size is typically less than three feet in length, so not a lot of space is needed. Mine are kept in 20 quart rubbermaid containers. Whatever you house the snakes in, take the proper steps to make sure that they cannot escape. Milk snakes are well known escape artists and will take whatever chance they get to get out. The substrate is newspaper, or aspen bedding for babies/juveniles, and a water bowl is placed in the enclosure several times a week so the snake can drink. The snakes are kept at room temperature, with a heat pad if being fed through the winter.
I do not keep these snakes together. I am cautious keeping the adult snakes together for breeding. I never feed milk snakes while they are in the same enclosure as other milk snakes, feeding accidents can and will happen.
Eating
Pueblan milk snakes will eat almost every prey item out there. In captivity keep them on a diet of mice. Hatchling pueblans are small, some may not be big enough to handle a whole pinky. For these tough subjects you may need to give them only the head of the pinky, until the snake is large enough to take a whole one. As the snake grows, either upgrade the size of the food, or give the snake more smaller prey items. If I am trying to get a snake at breeding size, or just put weight on a snake, I will power feed it for some. This involves me feeding the snake multiple prey items (3-5 fuzzies usually) two times a week.
Reproduction
Around the end of Fall I stop feeding the milk snakes, unless they aren't being bred, I will continue feeding those and keep them warm. The adults that will be breeding are not fed for several weeks, and then placed in a cooler area to brumate. This cooler area is usually 50 degrees. I keep them there for a couple months, and bring them back up to room temperature slowly by moving them throughout different rooms. About a week after they have been at room temperature I begin offering them food again.
I feed them heavily in the Spring. And they usually eat a lot. After they come out, feed, and shed, I put them together for breeding. Males usually try to breed right away. I don't leave the snakes alone for long. My regimen is feed the snakes, and a day later, put them together for breeding. This is just a precaution, and me hoping if the snakes are full they'll be more interested in breeding than feeding. I leave them alone for about 24 hours, and then separate them for 12 hours. Then I'll put them back together. This lasts for the rest of the week until the next feeding day. After two weeks they seem to lose interest in breeding, and the female starts developing eggs.
About two months later, the female snake will lay eggs, anywhere inbetween 4 and 13. When the snake is going through her pre egg laying shed I usually either A) Introduce a egg laying container, packed with moist moss or B) Remove the female and place her into an enclosure with moist moss, so she can lay her eggs. After the eggs are laid I remove them to another container, with perlite and moss, this is where the eggs incubate until they hatch. The temperature stays around 80-85 degrees in this container. Babies will hatch about two months later, at around 8" in length. After their first shed, you can begin trying to feed them.
After the eggs are laid, feed the female heavily. Put all that weight back on her. After you succeed in doing this, you can introduce the male again and attempt for another clutch of eggs. Pueblans have been known to easily double clutch, and sometimes triple clutch in a breeding season. But make sure you feed her a lot, you don't want her to go into brumation skinny.
Morphs?
One of the most common "morphs" in Pueblan milk snakes is the APRICOT phase, which is just a very nicely colored Pueblan that typically does not have white. These are well established in the hobby. There are also your "OREOS" and "HALLOWEENS" which are more or less, aberrant, and are Bi-colored, with only Black and White or Yellow and Black. Unfortunately, the Oreos or Halloweens are not a genetic trait, you cannot predict results from breeding these. I do not think ALBINOS have been found of this species. However, most recently HYPOS have surfaced, and there are a good number of these being produced.
Last Thoughts
Pueblan milk snakes are one of the easiest snakes to keep, feed, and breed and maintain successfully. They are a perfect starter snake for anybody. They are a joy to keep, they aren't ugly snakes, and for the most part they have good tempers.
Mike
Eastern Kingsnake caresheet
Pic Credits(in order from top to bottom)
GA Eastern Kingsnake male, by me
GA Eastern Kingsnake female, by me
GA Eastern Kingsnake female eating mouse, by me
Housing
Eastern Kingsnakes usually get atleast 4 feet in length. Mine are usually kept in 20 qt. rubbermaid containers. Though for breeding purposes a 30 gallon glass tank would be nice. For babies a small rubbermaid container will do, I usually keep mine in plastic kritter keeper tanks because they have a knack for escaping. For substrate I use newspaper because it's the easiest to clean(something that is needed due to how much they eat and crap), but I have used aspen with no problems. Temperature should be about 75-83 degrees. 
Eating
Kingsnakes eat a good variety of animals. Rodents, birds, bird eggs, turtles, turtle eggs, lizards, frogs and mainly other snakes. Kingsnakes get their name "King" because they eat other snakes. Kingsnakes have been known to eat Rattlesnakes, the snake's venom has NO effect on Kingsnakes and the fangs only produce mechanical injuries.
In captivity, Eastern Kingsnakes should be fed mice. The majority will take them from hatching, others will refuse everything but snakes and lizards/skinks. Feed them what you want, the choice is yours, but feeding WC snakes to CB snakes can result in parasite infestation.
My adult Eastern Kingsnakes take 2-4 adult mice every week, and the baby ones can easily take 2-6 pinky mice per week. True wrecking machines.
Hibernation
Eastern Kingsnakes should be put into hibernation around November-December of each year. Placed into a area where the temperature stays below 60 degrees, but above 45 degrees. Pull them out of hibernation around March-April.
Reproduction
Eastern Kingsnakes mate in the spring after emergence from their winter sleep. After you take them out of hibernation and they shed, introduce the male king into the female's enclosure. Watch them closely though, atleast until they lock up, alot of feeding accidents have occured with eastern kingsnakes.
About 2 months later the female will lay eggs. Usually atleast 6, up to about 15. Take the proper steps to incubate them, and around 2-3 months later they'll hatch. The babies are about 10"-13" in length at hatching. Offer them pinky mice a week after their first shed, hopefully they won't want snakes. :)
Albinos?
Yes there are albinos of the Eastern Kingsnake. To me, the albinos do not look like pure snakes. But to each his own.
Last Thoughts
Eastern Kingsnakes are great snakes to have. They grow fast, eat good, and breed readily. I love working these animals and they are easily one of my most favorite snakes.
Mike Fedzen
Scarlet Kingsnake caresheet
( Caresheet and photos by Buddy Grout )
Housing
The scarlet kingsnake(Lampropeltis triangulum elapsoides) is one of the prettiest of all the kingsnakes. Its small size makes it an ideal snake for someone with limited space. It has a red nose followed by varying amounts of black on the top of its head. Next comes a wide white/yellow band followed by a black band, next is the red band. The red and yellow/white bands are separated by black and the bands encircle the body in most specimens.
A ten-gallon tank with a tight fitting lid is large enough for any scarlet kingsnake.
You may want to provide a larger home but it is not necessary. A twenty-gallon is good for a breeding pair. The most efficient substrate is newspaper, which is easily replaced, but soil, moss or bark chips will also do. I provide a clay flowerpot turned upside down as a hiding spot, but any flat rock will do the trick. Scarlet kings can be kept in a terrarium set up and really enjoy burrowing in soil. If you decide to use a terrarium you must keep it clean and dry, snakes have been known to get blisters from being exposed to too much moisture. I do this by having each plant in a flowerpot, which is buried under the soil. The plants can be watered without spreading the moisture to the whole tank.
Eating
Scarlet kingsnakes seem to prefer lizards, but most will eat small mice, fish, frogs or snakes.
They, like all the kingsnakes are constrictors. Young scarlet kings can be fed small lizards, small snakes or small fish until they are big enough for pinkie mice. They seem to like ground skinks best.
Hibernation
During the winter month scarlet kingsnakes brumate either underground or in decaying logs. They come out when the weather begins to warm up. The further south the sooner they become active.
Reproduction
Scarlet kingsnakes begin looking for a mate after coming out of brumation. In captivity I give mine three to four meals before putting them together for breeding. In Florida March seems to be when breeding takes place. That is when my pair breed. The end of May to first of June is when egg laying occurs. I have had captive females double clutch around July with no additional breeding. They generally have four to six eggs per clutch, which hatch in about sixty days.
Albinos?
There are albino scarlet kings out there. I know of one in captivity, part of a breeding project. And I know several others have been found.
Last Thoughts
Scarlet kingsnakes are great pets for observing, but, they don't like to be handled. They are squirmy and tend to musk when excited. Young scarlet kings are very small it is difficult to find food small enough for hatchlings to eat, unless they will accept small snakes or fish. If you are thinking of getting one I suggest you purchase an adult that is eating small mice, lizards and skinks may be easy to provide for some as well, if you live in the southern states.
Buddy Grout